What wattage hid should i get




















Kensun, Inc. We wanted to provide you with some background information on the different choices of wattage to help you choose the right ballasts for you and your car. This means that if your input a total of 10W, the result will be a light beam of 9W.

The rule is: the higher the power level, the more heat. So it would seem that while 55W ballasts produce greater power, they are less efficient than their 35W counterparts. It only gets worse the further up the scale you go. Look, the color of the sun is 5,K that's 5, Kelvin, and it is the brightest light source that we know. When you get down to 3,K, it gets closer to the infrared spectrum of light, the red and the yellows. When you get up to 10, and 12,K, you get up closer to the ultraviolet range of usable light.

So, it makes sense. Can you see ultraviolet? Can you see infrared? So you are stuck in the middle. I do not mind if you want to do an 8,K or a 6,K HID kit, personally if you want to get a specific bluish color. I want you to be aware of what you are getting. Just because it is a higher Kelvin rating does not mean it is going to be brighter. We backed these projectors up to 25 feet from the wall, used a digital lux meter to measure the actual, usable brightness at the maximum intensity of the hotspot of each beam, and tested the difference in light output and color between 35 watt and watt ballasts.

It jumped up to maximum lux with watt ballast. At 35 watts, this thing came in at 1, maximum lux. That is three times brighter than the 3,K. When we put a watt ballast on it, it jumped up to 1, maximum lux. The 5,K HID bulb, at 25 feet, came in at 1, maximum lux with a watt ballast.

When we powered it with a watt ballast, it jumped up to 1, maximum lux. The 6,K HID bulb created maximum lux with a watt ballast, and it looks like a 6,K color. When we put the watt ballast on it, it jumped up to 1, maximum lux, but the color shifted down, looked more like a 5,K. The 8,K HID bulb came in at maximum lux. This result was a surprisingly small step from the 6,K we just tested.

Even though it is significantly bluer, the brightness did not change a whole lot in this test. When we put a watt ballast behind the 8,K bulb, the brightness jumped to 1, maximum lux, and the color shifted down to look like a 6,K bulb. When we put the watt ballast on, it jumped up to Previous posts months. Against popular PH wisdom, I put a set of 35w aftermarket HID's in a fiat coupe, replacing the 1 candlepower standard headlight bulbs.

They were projector lenses though, the spread wasn't too wide and they were aimed down slightly Was worth it IMO, although my advice would be to weatherproof the ballasts as they tend to be a cheap steel which will start to rust in no time. Various methods of doing this. Dont bother if you dont have projector lenses though, you'll just piss people off.

Mr2Mike 20, posts months. If you have halogen projectors then you have my sympathy. They are almost without exception crap, because a projector design blocks so much light. However this also means that you can fit HIDs without pissing off everyone else on the road. Go for the lowest colour temperature which will not only give you more light output, but will also improve colour rendition. Make sure the front lenses usually plastic these days of the headlamps are in good condition however.

I've had both 35w and 55w kits and they really don't make a difference IMO. I currently have a 35w kit in my car and it's been fine. Get k bulbs as I feel they are closest to white as you can get, k used to be the oem colour but they still look a bit yellow.

If your fitting it to a car that's not got projectors, make sure you get bulbs that are R ones. For instance h7R, this reduces glare thst so many bang on about. Don't listen to the people on here that say they burn your retinas, they say the same about DRLS and led breaklights they just like a good grump.

People will also say you have to have headlight washers and self leveling, while mot regs do say this, they say if fitted must be working, if it's not there it can't be tested and can't fail. This is also the case on new cars with a certain light output, like the LEDs on the new e class, doesn't have washers. In 3 years of hids I have never ever been flashed while driving, it's about beam pattern.



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